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SYR DVD # 02
SYR DVD 2 available for download
Price: 9.99 $
Full version video length: 28:00 min
SYR DVD # 02
SYR DVD 2 available for download
28:00 min
351 MB
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So You ‘re Renovating! Interior decoration, gypsum boards, moulding, painting and wallpaper

You will see in this DVD all the different possibilities that exist to completely transform one or all the rooms in your house. For instance, you will see how to use paint, mouldings, wall paper to create unique decors.

You will see all the step by step information needed to repair or re-construct your interior walls using gypsum boards and how to finish the joints. You will see the different varieties of paint you can use and how to properly prepare the surfaces. Many decorative painting techniques will be shown. Then you will learn everything about installing mouldings. You will see how to completely transform your interiors but most importantly you will see all the different techniques and material that are available on the market today. Finally, we will show you how to apply wall paper. And all this in one DVD.

In fact, this DVD brings you many decoration ideas and let you know how to create your own. It contains may trick of the trade, tips, and new products that will help you obtain professional results at a fraction of the costs.

Artaud Communications presents : So You ‘re Renovating! Interior decoration, gypsum boards, moulding, painting and wallpaper

Gypsum Boards

Before renovating or decorating a room, you must think about the possibility of redoing the walls and ceiling with gypsum boards. This can be a great solution to remove wall-covering you’ve grown to hate or plasterboard that is irreparably damaged. You can take this opportunity to insulate the exterior walls. Most walls in a house are 2,40 m to 2,45 m high, or 8 feet to 8 feet 2 inches if you prefer. These dimensions are ideal for gypsum boards. Actually, the boards can be put up horizontally using wider boards, 12 feet or 3,60 m long. This will help reduce the number of linear seams. Preferably choose 16 mm or 5/8-inch-thick boards. Since they are thicker than others, they are less likely to break and deform with your house’s movements and irregularities. Also, since they are heavier, the boards will add to the bulk of the walls and can soundproof the room in which they are installed. To cut through gypsum boards, use a T-square ruler and a utility knife, cut through the paper and score a bit of the plaster on the good side of the drywall. Break the back of the board and cut it this way. Then, sand the sides with a sand sponge. To put up gypsum boards, always start with the ceiling. It is strongly recommended to be at least two people for this job. You can also use home-made T-shaped brackets like these ones. Begin by screwing in the boards in the center of the wall, then work your way out toward the sides and the extremities. Use gypsum screws. Screws will seldom, if ever, pull out of the drywall.

The boards can be installed with a variable speed drill which can let you drive in the screws at exactly the right depth. Try to avoid having seams over or on the side of doors and windows ; boards are more likely to split in those areas. Screw every 30 cm for the ceiling, every 40 cm for the walls and at least 10 cm away from the sides of each board to avoid breaking the panel. For exterior walls, screws should be at least 15 cm from the joint between the ceiling and the top of the wall. This way, the joint between the ceiling and the wall won’t break, even with thermal expansion in the wintertime. On the ground, leave at least 1 cm between the floor and the gypsum board. Don’t forget to cut out the necessary openings for outlet boxes and other obstacles. Gypsum panels must be installed with the joints unaligned. It is also possible to put up horizontal furring strips on the wall to help install the drywall. You might loose some space though, as the wall will be thicker. However, this solution has many advantages. The exterior structure of a house is always moving because of thermal expansion. If you don’t lay the boards directly on the exterior wall, you reduce the risks of having joints splitting apart in your wall. Also, the screws won’t damage or pierce through the vapor barrier. All in all, the room will be better soundproofed since the furring strips actually stop vibrations, thus improving noise control. To get the best results, you should use streamlined metal moldings such as this one. On the outside corners, apply strips of metal beading to ensure superior protective measures against blows. If you wish to further soundproof your wall, add another layer of gypsum boards. The wall bulk will be augmented and the sounds blocked off.

Once the gypsum boards are installed, the tape has to be fixed to the joints with the compound. The compound must never freeze and it must be kept in a 13 degrees Celsius temperature before and after the work is done. Use another container to refill on your compound. This way, the original container will remain closed and free of all dried-out particles. For outside corners, apply a good quantity of drywall compound on both sides with the four-inch-wide spatula. Fold the tape in two and put it up. Coat the tape with a light touch of compound and smooth it out carefully. For the flat joint, apply a good quantity of drywall compound with the same spatula. Immediately put up the paper tape, the smooth side facing out. Don’t overlap the tape where the joints meet. A trick for cutting the tape quickly is to use the spatula this way. Slide the tape inside the compound with the spatula and coat it with a thin layer of compound. Seal off the screws. Two strokes with the spatula in opposite directions usually suffice. Apply the compound on outside corners. Apply approximately twenty-four inches of compound at once, then smooth it out. Repeat the same steps for the other side of the outside corner.

Wait at least 24 hours for the first coat to dry. Then, lightly smooth out all the small imperfections with medium glasspaper or by scraping them off with the spatula.

You can complete the second coat on inside angles in two steps. First, with the six-inch-wide spatula, apply the compound on one side, let it dry, then do the other side. This way, you’ll be able to remove the excess compound on the dry side. For flat joints, scrape the imperfections off and apply the second coat with the eight-inch-wide spatula before smoothing everything out. The joint will be approximately eight inches wide. Apply the second compound coat on outside corners with the eight-inch-wide spatula, then smooth out the surface. Finally, apply another coat on the screw heads. With the third coat, lightly sand the joints to remove all the little imperfections. Be careful not to sand too much and damage the paper. Repeat the same steps for the second coat. Complete one side of the inside corner, then do the other. This will give you perfectly straight inside corners. For flat joints, use a twelve-inch trowel. Make the joints larger so they are approximately twenty-four inches wide, then smooth out the surface. Use the same trowel for outside corners. To repair a swollen joint, or one that has split apart, open it, clean everything up and start over again. Once the third coat has dried, lightly sand out the imperfections with fine sandpaper. Wear protection goggles and a respirator. Also make sure there is sufficient ventilation. Wipe away the dust using a damp cloth.

To repair a joint that may have cracked, you need to cut it open with a utility knife, remove the old tape and start over again.

To repair a large hole, proceed as follows: first, cut out a gypsum piece big enough to completely cover the hole. Trace the gypsum piece contours this way so you can cut away an opening that’s proportionate to the gypsum. Slide a furring strip inside the wall and screw it in with two gypsum screws. Install the gypsum piece. All you’ll have to do is screw it in and follow-through with the tape-and-compound steps as we just saw. For better results, use plaster specially designed for repairs.


To complete quality work that will last for 10 years or more, follow the three rules of perfect painting: 1\ Prepare the surface before painting 2\ Use superior quality tools and paintbrushes. 3\ Use superior quality paint. Unless your are left-handed, start to work on the left upper corner and roll down in one motion, from the ceiling to the floor. When you apply paint, give W paintbrush or roller strokes to obtain a good, uniform coat, and to make sure the paint sticks well to the wall. When you paint with a roller, always roll in the same direction. If you want to change direction, you’ll have to roll the roller over itself. This way of applying paint ensures color uniformity and will give your wall a polished look. For the same reasons, when you paint a ceiling, you should always apply the paint widthwise instead of lengthwise. The seams will be less visible. If you paint up and down, then down and up without turning over the roller, the finish look might be uneven. This first coat of paint will fill in the pores and seal off the surface. It will offer additional protection for humidity migration through the walls. Moreover, it will help the finishing coats adhere to the wall and give it its nice, polished look. As far as paintbrushes and rollers go, note that synthetic bristles such as nylon or polyester are designed for latex paint, whereas natural bristles are designed for applying oil or alkyd paint. If you use a paintbrush with natural bristles to apply water-based paint, it will swell and loose its elasticity because natural bristles are water-absorbent. The bristle type is always indicated on the paintbrush handle. Once the first coat has dried, sand the little imperfections with fine sandpaper for an impeccable finish.

Moulding Apparently, Greeks were the first ones to use moldings to break surface monotony. Moldings can bring a room to life and give it character. Today, we will see how to install wood moldings because they are very nice to look at, easy to work with and very stable. You’ll find a multitude of dimensions and models on the market. There are three principal types of moldings. Jointed, wooden moldings that can be painted, solid wood moldings for a classic, tainted or varnished look, and finally, moldings covered with vinyl that are perfect if you want a ready-to-go product. To install conventional moldings, cut at a 45 degree angle for corners; as for Rightangles, they only require 90 degree cuts.

Given that good molding installation means nailing them into place, the first thing to do is to locate the wall studs. Doors and windows usually have stud frames all around them. However, to install plinths, or picture and ceiling moldings, vertical wall studs will have to be located. Studs can usually be found every sixteen or twenty-four inches. The best way to locate them is to use tape. Apply the tape on the floor, two inches away from the wall, all around the room. If you wish to install picture moldings, proceed in the same way but apply the tape on the wall, at the appropriate height. A picture molding is generally put up thirty-six to forty-two inches from the ground level. The tape should be applied approximately 10 cm away from the ceiling for ceiling moldings. Then, with an electronic stud detector, note the location of every 2/4. Once the studs are located, you can begin to install the molding. Here is how you do doors and windows. With a measuring tape or a tracing-guide such as this one, trace a line around the frame. Leave a 1\8-inch space around the doorframes. Start by installing lateral moldings, putting the thin side inside the frame. Measure from the upper edge. Always be careful to note the cut-out angle on the back of the molding so as not to make any mistakes. Make a 45 degree cut with the miter saw. To nail the molding, you should start by drilling in the holes. For drill bits, simply use headless nails. Two-inch conventional finish nails are required for the outer edge of the frame, and 1 1/4-inch nails can be used on the inside. The vertical sides are only partially fixed to allow some last minute adjustments. Then, take measures for the upper molding using this simple and quick method. Nail in the elements when everything is well adjusted. For windows, start by noting the width of lateral sides. This will allow you to measure the sill, the lower part of the window. The sill has to be one-inch longer than the lateral side moldings. You can also re-cut the sill using a 45 degree angle and add small, trimmed corners. Just glue them on for a nice finish. When cutting, add spare wood bits behind every little piece to prevent them from breaking. For the rest of the window frame, proceed the same way as for the doors. You can also add a second molding, a frame casing on top of the first one to create a beautiful pattern. Incline the miter saw and cut the plinths and the flat picture moldings at a 45 degree angle. Don’t forget to wear protection goggles.

Plinths and picture moldings are installed in the same fashion. Take the room measures and identify the cutting angles. Proceed with one cut at a time, gradually making your way around the room.

Lightly sand the extremities. Be sure to mark on the moldings the location of the wall studs; this way you’ll be sure to drill the holes in the right places. Verify the angle precision before definitively nailing the moldings to the wall. To measure plinths that come up to door thresholds, use a guide such as this one. You can make it yourself. If you need a middle-of-the-wall seam, choose a place where there is a stud and overlap the two molding parts by cutting a 45 degree angle. This is what we call a scarf-joint. This way of doing it will produce a more stable and less apparent seam. Note that picture moldings are always installed with the wider edge facing up. To angle-cut ceiling moldings, make a mark on the molding this way, on the back and in the front. The lower part of the ceiling molding is called the groove. When you cut through a ceiling molding, always place the groove facing up. You must always nail ceiling moldings through their grooves. For angles other than 90 degree that are not measurable, use a protractor. For exterior corners, extend on the floor or on a piece of wood the wall angle and take measures with the protractor. The miter saw will do the rest. Finally, with a little practice, you’ll quickly become a pro and be able to do as you like. The possibilities are unlimited. If you wish to do so, you can complete your home decor with a variety of accessories such as: ceiling light fixtures, mantelpieces, etc.

If you wish to paint the moldings, you must start by sealing the wood knots by applying undiluted shellac. If you don’t, the wood resin could very well sweat through the paint and give it a brownish hue. No kind of primer or alkyd undercoat will work better than shellac, although you can use a latex sealer to correct small imperfections. Afterward, you can apply a latex primer followed by two finishing coats. For door frames, it is preferable to use a glossy or semi-glossy finish to promote good wood resistance and easy maintenance.

You can paint or dye the moldings before putting them up, or even before cutting them, particularly if you choose a different color from the one on your ceiling or walls. You’ll be able to make minor touch-ups later on.

Rightangles came on the market some time ago and make molding installation much more easier and quicker. You don’t even need a miter saw. You just start by putting up the rosettes. Nail the pre-drilled rosettes right in the middle after having determined their exact position. Glue and nail outside corners of plinths and door thresholds. Glue and nail the inside and outside corners of ceiling and picture moldings. Now, just measure between the right angles and make 90 degrees cuts to complete the job. You can use a conventional circular saw to cut the moldings. The inside corners of the plinths don’t need to be glued or nailed since they are held back by the moldings. Simply glue the scarf-joints. Use an aptly-sized nail center punch to drive in the nail heads. Drive the nails 1\16 inch (1 or 2 mm) from the surface and hide them with colored filler matching the color of the molding.

Wall Paper Thanks to wallpaper, it’s possible to give a room an overall make-up and create a new ambiance in just a few hours. There are hundreds of different styles and textures to choose from, all of which can fulfill every dream and embellish any room. You can put up wallpaper all around or on only one part of the room. You can also use border tapestry or put it over already existing wallpaper. The possibilities are endless. Putting up wallpaper is easier than most people think. The first step, as was the case for painting, is to prepare the surface properly. Make sure the surface is clean and dry. Glossy surfaces must be lightly sanded. If you have already removed your old wallpaper, eliminate glue residues with a household detergent. The next step, which is an important one, is to apply a wallpaper primer. If you put up wallpaper directly on top of a latex-painted wall, the water-based glue will reactivate the paint and it will be very hard, if not impossible, to remove the wallpaper later on.

Install the wallpaper starting from the farthest corner from the doorway. Measure nineteen inches, from the corner, and trace a vertical line with a level. Cut a strip of wallpaper, called a width, adding 4 inches to the height of the wall. Before cutting the second width, make sure the seams align so as not to waste any paper. For wallpaper that’s not pre-pasted, use the appropriate glue. Gradually add the water-based glue, mix and shake well. When the glue is ready, spread it with a foam roller. Overlap two widths like this to avoid blemishes. Fold the wallpaper over itself by bringing together the two extremities toward the middle. The paper will stabilize and the seams will be less likely to come apart. Let the paper settle this way for the length of time mentioned on the manufacture label. Unfold the upper section and align the paper following the line you drew on the wall. Leave 2 inches of wallpaper extend out on the ceiling. With the sponge, smooth out the paper by pressing on it, starting from the middle and moving off to the sides. Then, unfold the lower section. Make sure not to apply excessive pressure: this could stretch the paper or make the glue squirt out from the sides. Eliminate large bubbles. Small bubbles will disappear when the wallpaper dries. Cut the paper surplus with a knife and a scraper this way. If necessary, remove the excess glue with a damp sponge. Repeat the same steps for each wallpaper width. Make sure to align the designs without letting them overlap. If the width is not adjusted properly, it is preferable to remove it and start over. For inside corners, measure the distance left and add one inch. Cut the width and glue it on. Let the excess width cover the adjacent wall. With your level, trace a line parallel to the corner at a distance equal to the last width. Overlap the two widths in the corner. Cut out doors, windows, outlet boxes, and other obstacles once the wallpaper is installed by cutting it this way. When you start up again following a door or a window, draw another reference line. If a seam comes apart, wet the paper to make it flexible again. Glue the seam back on with glue. Remove the excess glue with a damp sponge. For pre-pasted wallpapers, let the width soak in water for the required time, lift it up slowly, fold it back on itself and proceed in the same way. For repairs, cut a leftover piece wide enough to completely cover the damaged section. With your knife, make a double triangle cut. Remove the damaged section and replace it with the new paper. Another more simple and just as popular alternative is to add border tapestry. This can completely change a room’s look. Putting on border tapestry is child’s play. Border tapestry can considerably embellish a room and are very easy to install. You can put them up on the upper part of the wall, in the middle or in both places. They can stand by themselves, or be added on top of existing wallpaper, or combined with moldings. Use the appropriate glue to fix the border directly on the wall, unless the border is pre-pasted. Use another kind of glue to paste the border on top of already existing wallpaper. Wet the border or apply the glue, whichever the case is. Fold the border on top of itself in an accordion fashion. Gradually unfold the border and make sure you are level.

To remove old wallpaper, use wallpaper stripper diluted in hot water. You can sand the surface with sandpaper to let the stripper penetrate and attack the glue more rapidly. Let the stripper settle. As a last resort, use a steam stripper or apply an oil-based primer and put up the wallpaper on top.

The important thing to remember concerning interior decoration is that there are no ugly or unusable colors, textures or materials. The secret lies with arranging the different elements. It’s your job to create combinations that fit your tastes and personality. Express yourself !