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Kitchen Renovation Videos

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SYR DVD # 04
SYR DVD 4 available for download
Price: 9.99 $
Full version video length: 43:00 min
SYR DVD # 04
SYR DVD 4 available for download
43:00 min
531 MB
Buy this DVD :
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So You’re Renovating! The kitchen

Your kitchen is one of the most important rooms in your home. It must be both functional and comfortable. Kitchen renovating is a sound investment: 75% of the expenses will be recuperated by your house’s resale value. Carrying out the renovation work yourself can also help you save a lot of money and prove to be a more satisfactory, fun way to meet the needs of your household. However, kitchen renovating is the most costly type of home improvement work there is. This fact makes planning the layout more vital.

You can save a lot of money by renovating your kitchen yourself. You will also get a lot of satisfaction out of this project and perhaps have fun!

You will see in this DVD all the different kitchen configurations, how top design and plan your kitchen complete renovation.

You will also learn how to assemble and install cabinets and counters.

The basic plumbing task will be explained so you can install sinks and faucets

Finally, the complete installation of a vyinly floor will be shown step by step.

If you want to change an old faucets, change decor or redesign your whole kitchen, you will find all the information you need on this DVD.

In fact, this DVD contains all the tricks of the trade for your kitchen remodeleing, It is a reliable source of information that will allow you to obtain preofesional results at a fraction of the costs.

Artaud Communications présents : Remodeling the kitchen, Design, Cabinetry, Counters, Sinks and faucets, Flooring

The first step in kitchen renovating is taking down the exact measurements of the room and getting an accurate, scaled plan. Start in one corner of the room. Measure from one wall extremity to the next and take down the measurements in inches. Starting from the outside of the frame, determine the location and dimensions of all doors and windows. Use graph paper to draw up your plan. Indicate in which direction the doors open and clearly mark the location of pipes and electric sockets for the stove. Also note the location of every other power outlet or any other hot-air vent or radiator. Register any special configuration of the ceiling or walls. Finally, take down the exact dimensions of all kitchen household appliances.

The next step is to create your new kitchen. You can work out the new design with the help of different experts, retailers or manufacturers. The scaled plan must precisely indicate the dimension and location of all new kitchen cabinets and appliances. There are four typical kitchen layouts: the Corridor kitchen, (One-Wall kitchen or Single-line kitchen) the L-shape, the U-shape and the G-shape kitchen. (G-spot kitchen… my favorite…just a joke Al!!!) More often than not, the choice of a new kitchen style is determined by the amount of space you have access to. Spacious kitchens can lead to unnecessary walking about, whereas small kitchens usually mean scarce storage and working space. The dimensions of your kitchen should meet several basic standards.

The Corridor kitchen has units and appliances lined along facing walls. This layout is ideal when there is at least 3 feet between facing units. The stove and sink should be on one side. If the space between the walls is limited, opt for a (One-Wall kitchen or Single-line kitchen) L-shape kitchen which welcomes all the elements along one wall. The U-shaped kitchen layout runs along three adjoining walls. Work surfaces and appliances are generally spread out. Finally, the G-shape kitchen is actually a U-shape kitchen to which was added a breakfast bar or extra storage units. Islands can also be integrated in the layout. However, only large kitchens can accommodate islands since a 3 feet clearance is required between the island and the facing run of base units. Plan to install the sink close to the pipes to avoid additional expenses. The ideal location for a sink is in front of the window. Look for installing the dishwasher close by. Plan for storage spaces for the dishes, and for a total of at least 12 inches of counter surface on each side. Arrange for the oven to be at least 12 inches from the sink, where the air vent is located, and never position it in front of a window. Avoid putting a pantry or spices too close to the oven: this may affect the taste of foods. Once again plan for work surfaces on each side. The refrigerator should not be placed right next to the oven. Arrange for work spaces to be found nearby so you can put down things you take out of the refrigerator. The sequence formed by linking the positions of your kitchen’s most important elements - the oven, sink and refrigerator - is known as the work triangle. Ideally, the total length of the three sides of the triangle should not exceed 21 feet. The triangle must be larger than 5 feet to leave enough work space between the three units. Plan for a main work area, or at least 3 feet wide of free counter space.

Once your scaled plan is done, ask contractors to put in a tender for the cabinetry work. Although the most popular countertop material is still melamine, other options are available. You can decide on the cabinet doors of your own choosing, among which natural wood. Today, most kitchen cabinets are modular and consist of interchangeable elements. Installing cupboards in the kitchen is much easier than most people would think. A well-planned kitchen cabinet installation can take a mere four hours. Your priority should be a perfectly leveled floor. Otherwise, don’t hesitate to level the floor with plywood. The remainder of the work is pretty simple.

Many manufacturers offer quality prefabricated kitchens whose assembling process is most simple. These types of kitchens are either pre-assembled or arrive in a kit. Pre-assembled kitchens are usually custom-made and more expensive. On the other hand, kitchen kits can substantially save you money without being of lesser quality. In general, the construction materials used in both products are the same. Let’s see how simple it is to assemble a kitchen kit. Unpack and assemble each individual cabinet one by one following the plan and detailed instructions included in the boxes. Normally, the boxes should contain all the elements needed to put up the cabinets, aside from the door. The sticker on the box indicates which type of cupboard is on hand and will refer you to the proper door. Prefabricated kitchen cabinets are also very easy to install. Just follow the instructions. Plastic pins eliminate the need for nails or staples. Each box comprises of a small plastic bag containing all the hardware parts required. Door hinges allow a quick, almost instantaneous installation. To assemble the drawers, remove the plastic pad on the lateral guide strips, take out the screw, position the front of the drawer and put the screw back in. All you need to do now is to put the plastic pad back in its place and there you have it ! Assemble the drawers and insert them into each cupboard to make sure all the elements are at hand. Note that you must install the cabinet with the drawers and doors off. Identify each individual cupboard on its backside to avoid making any mistakes.

Before you assemble the base cabinets, locate the highest point in your floor. Make a mark on the wall accordingly and draw a horizontal line corresponding to the height of the lower cupboards. Pencil a level line at this height. Find wall studs using a finishing nail or an electronic detector. Usually, wall studs can be located every 16 inches, center to center. On the wall, under the level line, identify the location of each unit. Repeat the same tracing operations for the wall-mounted cabinets. Their level line should be approximately 3 feet ten inches from the highest point in the floor. Start in a corner and install the first unit. This first cupboard is very important. It must be perfectly level, otherwise all the other kitchen cabinets will be crooked. Adjust the level of the cupboard with wood shims on each side. Once it is level, screw in the cupboard to the wall studs. Install the second cupboard. Fasten it to the first cupboard using a vise-grip. Pre-drill the holes to screw the two cupboards together. Once the two cabinets are assembled, you can adjust the level of the second cupboard with wood shims before you secure it to the wall. For the sink cabinet, transfer and match the piping on the backside of the cupboard. Some manufacturers make this stage easier by including a removable back panel. Use your electric drill to make a hole in the panel before you cut it with a jigsaw. Finally, push the unit into the desired position and repeat the same installation stages as for the second cupboard. Measure the space required for the stove before putting in the adjacent cupboard. Do the same thing for the refrigerator space before you put in the pantry. Mark the exceeding portion of the shims with a blade and break off the parts that stick out.

Unless your kitchen is fitted with perfect, exclusively rectangular angles, strive for custom-designed countertops, especially if you’re faced with 45-degree corner angles. Your job will be to take down the measurements as precisely as possible. In doubt, don’t hesitate to make scaled cut-outs.

If you’re putting in new kitchen cabinets, make a point of ordering pre-cut countertops that will best suit your needs. Set the counters against the wall and make sure the front sides of the counters and cabinets are parallel. Test to see if you can open the cabinet doors. If the doors rub against the front of the worktops, add a 5/8 of an inch-thick plywood sheet under the counter. Apply silicone on the inside seam of 45-degree angled countertops. To seal off the surface and avoid any water infiltration, use invisible silicone, the most appropriate sealant for this kind of job. Preferably opt for anti-mildew silicone. Press the counters together until the silicone oozes out of the joint. Install the clamps in the anchoring holes under the counter, starting with the one on the far end, then the one completely in front, and finally the one in the middle. Tighten loosely. Using a wood block and a hammer, lightly knock the sections together for a perfect joint. You can now make the clamps as tight as possible. Adjust the level with cedar shims. Finally, attach the countertops using screws of the right length. If you’re only replacing the counters, proceed as follows. To install new kitchen counters, start by measuring the total length of each cabinet section along the backsplash and on the front side. Measure the width of every cabinet section without including the thickness of the door. Kitchen countertops usually come in standard widths of 25 inches. Assess the corner angles and make sure they are 90-degree by measuring 4 feet from the corner, and 3 feet on the adjacent wall. Then, calculate the distance between the two points. For a perfect, 90-degree angle, this distance will be of 5 feet. If the distance is ¼ inch over or under the 5 feet mark, take down the exact measure so the distributor can produce a cut of the corresponding degree. We strongly recommended you have the distributor tailor-cut your countertops. Finish off the edges before settling the counters into position. There are 2 types of finish for edges. Usually, noticeable overhangs are finished off baguette-style, while continuous edges leading to appliances have a profiled finish. For the baguette-style finish, set the plywood strip in perfect alignment with the edge of the counter. Apply the material and make it adhere by running a maximum heated iron to and fro over the surface. Rub the material down with a buffered block of wood, working evenly along the surface for best contact. When the material has cooled and stabilized, finish off the edges with a medium-size wood file. Hold the file at an angle almost parallel to the counter and file down in a to and fro motion. For a profiled finish, glue the material on the countertop edge, again using the iron. With the block of wood, make sure the surfaces adhere, let them cool, then file them down. If the wall is not perfectly straight, adjust a compass at the largest distance between the wall and the counter. Trace a line on the back of the countertop. Sand off the surplus with the sandblaster until you reach the line. Hold the sandblaster perpendicularly to the counter.

You must now install the top cabinets. Start by protecting the new countertops with cardboard cut-outs. Installing wall-mounted cabinets sensibly involves the same work as for typical base cupboards. For a smooth-running installation, you’ll need a helper. In the next segment, note the use of moldings and light gates. These elements are relatively easy to install and will give your kitchen a unique character.

Start by the top cupboard in the corner of the room. Use a prop such as this one to hold the cupboard in place. Align the top of the cupboard with the level line you traced earlier. Screw the cupboard into the wall studs. This first cupboard must be absolutely level if you want the other cabinets to be straight. Install the second top cupboard. Secure the second cupboard to the first one with a vise-grip, as you did for the base cabinets. Once they are perfectly assembled, pre-drill and screw the two cupboards together. Then, screw the second cupboard to the wall studs. For the kitchen window to be perfectly centered between the cupboards on each side, match the distance between the window and the left cupboard on the opposite side. This way, the window will be perfectly centered. Pencil in a vertical level line and put up the cupboard accordingly. Finally, install the pantry. Level it with cedar shims. Screw it into the unit next to it and then to the wall studs, as you did the other cabinets. To install plinths, moldings and light gates, we recommend you use a miter saw. Cut the plinths to your preferred length. Assemble the sections together with small metal squares such as these. Nail in the plinth sections in place with finishing nails. To install moldings, you must start by penciling location lines over the cabinets. These guidelines will help you accurately determine the length of each molding. Cut the moldings and glue them together with contact adhesive. Once the glue has dried, pre-drill the molding sections. Set them into position. The first groove of the top molding must match the front of the cupboards. The second groove will correspond to the front of the door once it is closed. Screw in the moldings. As for light gates, once the sections are cut and glued together, use small metal squares as you did for the plinths to attach them below wall-mounted cabinet units. Complete the installation of other kitchen moldings - for example, the moldings around the window - by harmonizing different styles. Slide the drawers back into the base units. Install the plastic supports for the shelves. Hang the cabinet door back into position. If a door is crooked or closes uneasily, adjust the screws in the hinges. Many manufacturers provide hardware specifically designed to adjust cupboard doors. A few quick turns and there you have it: a perfect fit. You can also put up dummy doors on the side of some units for a more elegant, consistent finish.

Once the cabinets, countertops and moldings are installed, the only things your kitchen needs to be fully functional are the sink and appliances. In one of our previous programs, we showed you countertops which are now available in hard surfaces equipped with built-in sinks. However, stainless steel sinks remain highly popular and very contemporary. They offer a wide variety of shapes, sizes and models. All are durable, low maintenance, economical and easy to install. Any amateur do-it-yourselfer can put in a stainless steel sink in the kitchen, just as long as he - or she - has a good jigsaw on hand.

Start by taking the cutout supplied with the sink out of the box. Cut loose the pattern that fits the sink model you wish to install. Place the cutout on the countertop and locate its center. Align the center of the cutout with the center of the sink unit. Draw the outline carefully, without shifting the cutout. Use a jigsaw to cut the appropriate pattern, starting from a hole drilled on the outline. Apply adhesive tape on the base of the jigsaw to prevent it from scratching the surface when you’re cutting. Cut through the countertop, on the inside of the guideline. Set the sink into position and match the center of the sink with the central line penciled on the countertop. Leave the plastic paper on the sink to protect its stainless steel finish. Trace the openings for the plumbing using the holes on the sink as a template. Remove the sink and, using a drill and a bit of the appropriate diameter, cut the openings for the plumbing in the countertop. Lay the sink upside down on the counter and install the sump. Gently tighten the nut manually, then use a pipe wrench. Install the sewage ring. Note that the drains were placed in the back to save storage space in the cupboard underneath the sink. The damper under the sink helps reduce noise made by dishes and utensils. Put the clamping bolts in the appropriate place on the sides of the sink. Now you can remove the tape protecting the adhesive foam joint. Lower the sink into the opening and make sure the center and the plumbing openings match. Gradually tighten the clamping bolts under the sink to hold it firmly to the counter.

Sink and taps are generally sold separately. A wide range of kitchen taps is available today on the markets, with units for all kinds of tastes and budgets. Pick a high quality product : As your home’s main water dispenser, kitchen taps are one of the most utilized elements in a household, a fact which puts them in a class of their own. They should thus be virtually immune to wear and tear, and as stylish as possible. You must start by choosing between two types of taps, each unique in its conception.

There are compression faucets with rings and other models with no ring. The compression ring model controls the water flow by lifting up the ring that sits on top of the faucet seat. This type of faucet should be used when water pressure is low, when the water carries sediments and minerals from iron piping, or if the water comes from a pump-operated well. No-ring faucets control water flow with a stainless steel ball which aligns the internal openings when it pivots. This way, no pressure is exerted on the seat, a fact which consequently extends the life span of the faucet. What’s more, dripping faucets are eliminated. When the faucet is shut off, the valve automatically reverts to a safe temperature for the next user.

Once you’ve chosen between a compression ring faucet and a no-ring mechanism, you’ll have to consider the style and price of the tap. Again, opt for a solid, long-life faucet. Actually, choosing only one model can prove to be your most trying ordeal! As for the installation, no reason should prevent you from doing it yourself.

Let’s see how to go about installing a kitchen tap equipped with a flexible sprayer hose. Start by putting the watertight washer on the sink. Delicately insert the water inlet pipes. The faucet must be settled on the washer. Insert the flexible sprayer hose. Underneath the sink, position the support plate and mounting nut that will keep the faucet in place. Use the supplied cartridge to secure the bolt. Then, connect the speedway inlet pipes to the tap. Tighten the brass bolt manually, and finish off using a wrench and a grip. Make only one full turn. Install the weight on the pipe of the sprayer hose. Connect the supply tube of the hose. Now, connect the water inlet pipes to the plumbing. Installing chromium faucets with interchangeable taps is very similar to faucet types previously shown. Screw the retaining nuts of the faucet manually. Connect the pipe of the sprayer hose. Then, connect the speedway water inlet pipes to the faucets. Gently tighten the brass bolt manually, then use a grip. Make only one full turn. Carefully clean the extremity of each one of the copper pipes with steel wool or sandpaper to remove all traces of oxidization. Put on compression rings on the ends of the copper pipes, and tighten them this way. Use a wrench on the compression ring, and another one on the bolt. Once more, make sure you don’t tighten them too much. Connect the speedway tubes to the rings. Finally, connect the drain. You must absolutely install a U bend pipe to prevent sewer gas from backing up in the room. You must now remove the faucet aerator. Let the water run for a few minutes to eliminate all possible debris. Make sure there are no leaks, then put the aerator back in its place. The aerator will help you save a lot of hot water and reduce electricity expenses.

Pull a silicone joint between the countertop and its backsplash to avoid any water infiltration. Apply masking tape on each side of the joint. Clean the surface to remove any trace of dust, soap, grease, flaking paint or sealant. Preferably apply an anti-mildew silicone. Try to keep the same angle and speed as much as possible during the application. Shape the silicone line with a wet plastic spoon or spatula, 6 to 8 minutes after the application. Remove the masking tape right away.

Floor coverings must be tough, comfortable, low maintenance and, obviously, nice to look at. One material providing such qualities is linoleum. Linoleum has always been a popular choice for floor covering because it is extremely easy to look after. There are many types of finishes whose vinyl wear-layers call for regular buffing. Urethane-based wear-layers require much less maintenance. Choose the floor covering that best suits the needs of the room in which it will be installed. In the kitchen for example, preferably opt for urethane-based floor coverings. As you will see in our next segment, your main concern before installing floor covering is to make sure the surface you’re working on is well-prepared. You’ll also need a paper cut-out pattern. Using a pattern is the only way to guarantee a perfect installation. It’s much easier than you think !

Start by giving the floor a sweep and fill in the holes and the cracks with the right kind of filler. Remove all debris and worn out materials. If you’re working over old floor covering, make sure it is properly glued on. Nail down the spots that have come unstuck. For a great looking end-result, saw off the door moldings. This way, you’ll be able to slide the floor covering underneath. Finally, remove the plinths. If you’re faced with a seriously damaged surface, you can use a surface finisher. Note that removing old vinyl floor covering is a painstaking, time-consuming process. Refrain from doing so unless it is absolutely necessary. If the surface is damaged or if you’re working over strip wood floors, you’ll have to cover them with ½-inch-thick plywood sheets guaranteed by the manufacturer. Start by making a pattern replicating the exact shape and dimension of the kitchen. Also available on the market are guaranteed installation kits comprising of all the required elements. Such a kit will make the job much easier. Spread out the pattern on the floor one sheet at a time. Leave a gap a few mm wide between the walls and the pattern outline. Cut off the openings in the shape of a triangle onto the pattern itself so you can attach it to the floor with masking tape. Let the sheets overlap. Assemble the pattern over the entire surface. Proceed in the same manner for the oven, dishwasher and refrigerator spaces. Slide the paper under the door moldings. With the marker included in the kit and intended for this purpose, trace the outline of the pattern. Identify the doorframes and other obstacles. Then, roll up the pattern and unroll it again over the new floor covering. You’ll need a large-size room such as the garage, the playroom or the basement to work comfortably. Make sure the pattern is the right way up. Secure it down on the floor covering with masking tape. Then use the transfer guide to trace the pattern outline on the floor covering. Set the blade on the guide and start cutting out the contours. Whether it is over old floor covering, newly leveled floors, new plywood sheets, concrete floors or ceramic tiling, installing a felt backside floor covering always involves the same work steps. Give the floor one last good sweep to eliminate any and all possible debris. Settle the new floor covering down on the kitchen floor and make sure it fits every nook and corner snugly. Fold it over onto itself and apply the adhesive using the appropriate trowel. Wait five minutes before laying the floor covering over the adhesive. Then, use a rolling pin to promote good contact between the floor covering and the adhesive. Ideally, use a linoleum roller. You can rent one in a tool rental center. Proceed in the same fashion for the other half of the room. Start in the center and make your way off to the side. Now, all you need to do is put the moldings and shoe moldings back in their spots for an impeccable finish.

A large room may require more than one piece of floor covering. You might have to make a joint. Plan the installation so as to make the shortest joint possible. Then, follow these instructions. Leave a 2 inch overlap between the sheets of pattern paper and secure them with adhesive tape. Draw four straight lines on the overlap and identify them this way. Then, remove the tape and lift up the pattern in two sections. If the motif of the two floor covering sections need to be harmonized, place them facing the same direction or reverse their position. Make the two sections overlap and attach them with adhesive tape. Apply the pattern and match the straight lines. Attach the pattern to the floor covering and cut out the second piece. Settle the two sections down on the kitchen floor. Fold over each side of the floor covering and trace a pencil line where the joint will be. Draw two parallel lines 12 inch on each side of the first guideline. Spread some adhesive on the subfloor right up to the 12 inch line. Using a metal ruler and a utility knife fitted out with a new blade, cut along the outside edge of the motif of an element. Make sure you cut through both layers of floor covering. Remove the scrap cuttings. Apply adhesive under the joint, inside the two 12 inch lines. Carefully set down each side of the floor covering and press down with the roller. Wipe off the joint with a wet cloth. You must seal off the joint with a type of sealant specifically designed to coat joints. Wipe the joint with the proper cleaner and apply the sealant.

To protect your new floor, use plywood sheets when you are moving your appliances

For a special decorative touch, think of the possibility of matching your toe kick with counter tops.

Now for your electrical appliances, we strongly suggest you choose new energy efficient units. Look for their consumption charts and compare before you buy.

We truly wish this DVD will help you remodel your kitchen and help you save money at the same time. Take your time and do your best. It is worded since your new kitchen can really make a big difference in the re-sale value of your house and most importantly in your life style.