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Bathroom Renovation Videos

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Bathroom plumbing introduction
Basic plumbing notions for the renovation of the bathroom
Price: Free
Full version video length: 3 min
SYR DVD # 06
SYR DVD 6 available for download
30:00 min
372 MB
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So you’re Renovating ! The bathroom

Bathrooms have undergone tremendous changes in the last few years. People now tend to widen this area. Converting bathrooms into open-plan spaces by including them in the master bedroom for example, is now a very popular option. Appliances such as showers, bathtubs and toilets have all been greatly improved and today offer wonderful and new possibilities. Moreover, renovating your bathroom is a sound investment. Close to 75% of all expenses will be recuperated by the house’s resale value. Still, bathroom renovations can be quite expensive and make planning ahead all the more important.

In this DVD we will take a look at how to renovate your bathroom from top to bottom, starting with basic designing notions. We will replace appliances such as sinks, showers and toilets. You will also see how to set up a spa bath install cabinets and ceramic tiles.

Whether you want to replace a faucet or completely remodel your bathroom, this DVD will help you obtain professional results at a fraction of the costs. Artaud Communications présents: So you’re Renovating ! The bathroom, Design, shower,Bathtub, toilet, tiling , sinks and faucets and florring!

To perform in-depth renovation work in your bathroom, you must remove all appliances such as the sink, the shower, the bathtub and the toilet. It is very important to stuff a rag in the drains to prevent sewer gas and odors from backing up into your house.

The first step for renovating the bathroom is to lay out the job and draw a sketch. Start in one corner, measure to the end of the wall and write down the dimensions in inches. Starting from the outer edge of the frame, measure the location and dimension of all doors and windows. Use a grid like this one to sketch out the room. Note in what direction the doors open and where the water pipes and the drains are located. It’s always better to keep the existing piping and simply put up new appliances where the old ones stood. This will greatly limit additional plumbing expenses. The next step is to design your bathroom. Respect certain standard measurements. To name but a few: leave a 2 feet clearance space in front of the toilet and sinks for moving around. For double sinks, there should be at least 2 feet and a half center to center.

If you wish to widen your bathroom and add appliances such as a spa bath, a shower or even a double sink, you will probably need to shift some partition walls. As we will see later on, you can take this project one step further by soundproofing your new partition walls or build new ones. If you have to do some plumbing work, always make sure to block off drain pipes during renovations. Otherwise, sewer gas could make its way inside the room.

In many cases, walls and ceilings have to be redone because of the damage caused by water in passing years. You might have to build a wood frame to support the shower and spa bath. For lumber use 2/4 wall studs. For walls on the receiving end of appliances, 2/6 beams are generally recommended. The additional space they provide will make piping installation easier and won’t weaken your wall structure. Take advantage of the fact that the wall frame is uncovered to carry out plumbing work. Note the location of the pipes on the wall studs before cutting them. Then, carve out the piping case in the wall studs. Use a miter saw to cut through plastic pipes. Sand the extremities. For drains, leave a one inch incline for every 3 feet long pipe section. The vents must be connected to the plumbing backbone. Indeed, every drain section longer than 3 feet must be connected to the upper part of the plumbing backbone for air supply.

Without this air supply, there can occur a siphon effect inside the drain system which could empty the water inside the pipe. Sewer gas might then make its way inside your home. Moreover, outgoing waste water would not be able to flow out as freely.

To install two sinks, connect the vents this way. The important thing to remember is that each sink must absolutely be connected to the plumbing backbone. If it is not possible to replace the 2/4 wall frame, you can cut through the beams this way to put up the plumbing and the drains. You can then add 2/2 beams inside the wall frame to provide a reinforced nailing surface. For a 2/6 wall frame, protect the pipes with metal protectors such as these. Install removable cap on the drains to prevent sewer gas and odors to penetrate inside your home while the plumbing work is still underway. Then, you can put up the water inlet pipes. Remember that cold water is on the right, and hot water on the left. For great soldered joints on copper pipes, you must prime them beforehand. Make sure the pipes are really hot, then apply additional welding. Put the pipes in the middle of the wall studs. If you don’t, they could be damaged by the screws used for the wall-covering. Leave a condemned pipe section extending 2 feet above the joint for each water inlet pipe. These extensions, called air columns, eliminate water hammers. Water hammers are loud and unpleasant impact noises you can hear when faucets without air columns are turned on or off.

Renovating your bathroom will inevitably mean installing ceramic tiles. Doing without them would be a pity since beautiful styles and textures are now available. However, for long-lasting watertight ceramic tiles, certain facts have to be taken into account. First, you should install structurally resilient supporting material to prevent the tiles from breaking. This is especially true if the tiles are used for floor-covering. Some people say that ceramic tiles have the resistance of the surface on which they are laid. Therefore, if the setting bed is too flexible, the tiles will break upon impact. A good alternative is to install cement panels. Install cement panels where you want to put ceramic tiles. Cement panels provide a water-resistant, solid surface that can efficiently support ceramic tiles. It is true to say that ceramic tiles have the resistance of the surface on which they are laid. Cement panels are great for walls, floors and countertops. To cut through the panels, simply score one side with a carbide-tipped knife and break the panel. Then cut through the fiberglass mesh tape. Use a jigsaw for specific cuts. If needed, shape the edges with a rasp. Fibro-cement panels also have a high-resistance to humidity. They should be installed both behind the shower stall and the bathtub since those areas don’t need wall finishing. Install the cement panels with their rough edge facing out. This will increase their adherence to the tiling. Apply fiberglass tape on all the panel seams. You can let the tape overlap in intersections. Now, let the ceramic tile adhesive bed the tape, completely covering it. Smooth out the joints. Cement panels are very effective and easy to install, in spite of their heaviness and rough look. Cement panels are great for bathroom renovation since they will last many years. Once the adhesive has dried, you can begin putting up ceramic tiles.

The bathtub is usually the central element in your bathroom. Thanks to lighter and more malleable materials, bathtubs today are more spacious although still equivalent in volume to regular bathtubs. It is possible for you to change your old bathtub for a recessed one equipped with a spa option without completely redoing your bathroom walls. This is a very interesting renovation idea. To put in a new bathtub, proceed as follows:

Place the bathtub into position. To level the bathtub, adjust it with cedar wedges. Make a mark on the beams around the bathtub right over the edge. (pause) Take the bathtub out. (pause) Measure the edge width and transfer this under the marks on each one of the beams. (pause) Fix 1/4 support wood strip on back and lateral wall studs, under the second line. The support wood strip must be leveled and installed at a height which will allow the bathtub to rest. As for a shell, build lateral wood fixtures to support each side of the bathtub, unless it is already encased by two walls. In this case, the bathtub will simply be attached to the lateral walls the same way as for the back wall. If you install a tub sprout in the bathtub, it will have to be put up before the bath is lowered into position. Install the overflow and return pipe in the bathtub. Finally, put the bathtub in place. The sides must be supported by the support fixtures. Every 2 feet, pierce 1/8 of an inch diameter holes through the tiling edge and screw the bathtub in. Complete the framework by adding two access panels, one for the plumbing and another for electrical appliances. Leave a 2 mm clearance around the bathtub edge and cement panels. Apply silicone caulk to seal off the surface and avoid all water leaks. The best choice for a long-lasting, mildew-free joint in high-moisture installations is silicone caulk. It will help reduce the risks for black stains around the bathtub.

For walls where no tiling is desired, use waterproof gypsum boards. They are specifically designed to minimize problems caused by humidity in washrooms, bathrooms, kitchens and multi-purpose areas. These boards possess :1/ a multi-layered, green-paper front side chemically treated to resist humidity; 2/ a waterproof gypsum core and 3/ a multi-layered back-paper treated to resist humidity. Waterproofed gypsum boards are not recommended for ceilings.

It is possible to build a beautiful shower stall out of ceramic tiles. Another quicker option is to install a prefabricated reinforced acrylic shower stall. This could be combined with a same style bathtub. Several new products have recently made their way on the market. Showers with one, two or three jets, soap distributors, built-in stereo, etc. There is something for everyone. The greatest advantage a prefabricated shower stall offers you is low maintenance. To put up one of these in your bathroom, listen to the following segment.

Between the wall studs, fix a 1/4 spreader wood strip for the faucets and the showerhead. The faucets are usually installed thirty-seven inches off the ground, and the showerhead 6 feet 1 inch. Screw the valve in place and weld the leveled shower-arm escutcheon. Connect the remaining water inlet pipes. Don’t forget the two 24-inch air columns to eliminate water hammers. Put up the soundproof blankets, acoustic panels, wood furring and gypsum boards. (pause) Make sure the wall corner is perpendicular to the leveled floor. Drill in the hole for the shower drain. Make sure it is well centered. Precisely locate the temperature control for the shower sprout. There are several kinds of showers on the market. The shower system we are putting up here has a quality finish and a contemporary design that sets it apart from all the others. Made out of reinforced acrylic, the wall panels and the base are easy to clean and fit snugly into each other for a watertight installation. Lay down the shower pan on the floor and adjust the level with cedar wedges. Install the drain in the shower pan. Put the upholstery in the connection. Slide them in the shower stall, through the top. Draftproof with silicone caulk between the two wall panels and tie up the units with screws and nuts supplied by the manufacturer. Put up the wall panels around the shower pan in the right position. Drill in the holes on the shower pan. Apply silicone caulk between the two panels and on the shower stall pan. Fix the assembled panels by using the threading screws supplied. Put the base and panels into position in one swift motion and make sure everything is level. Pre-drill the panel edges and simply screw the shower in.

Before you begin installing ceramic tiles, we want to show you how tiling was born out of the ancient art of mosaics. The big difference between the two is that mosaics are usually a drawing of some sort, whereas tiling is generally used for surface covering. It would be a shame to forget its origins, though. Quality ceramic tiling is always noticed for its symmetry and pattern harmony. To achieve something like this, you have to be precise when you map out the room and plan the tiling surfaces. The size of the tiles and the space you will leave between them can dramatically change the general aspect of your work.

To achieve flawless, straight ceramic tiling, you must carefully plan ahead. Set the ceramic tiles so that they will fit in naturally with your bathroom’s main structure lines. For example, avoid cutting the tiles in an irregular fashion or in focal point areas. A home-made wood guide such as this one will help you determine where the tile rows will be on the wall. If the ceramic tiles are not perfectly aligned, make a second guide to locate the vertical rows. Draw a horizontal line at the most noticeable height. Lines that go over the bathtub or that are at eye level are usually the most important ones. Draw the horizontal line at this level. With the guide, determine where each row will be set up. You will then be able to anticipate and visualize the project’s finished look and make sure the tiles harmonize with the different elements in the room, including windows, counters, doors, etc.

Adjust and redraw your reference lines to avoid joints in unsightly areas or cut-out sections in focal points. The whole project must be well-balanced and symmetrical for a beautiful, polished look.

On the horizontal reference line, mark the middle of the wall with an « x ». With the guide, make a notch where the vertical lines cross your horizontal reference line. The tiles on each side of the wall should be equal in width. Readjust the vertical lines on the reference lines if need be. Leave a 1/8-inch space between the ground and the guide. Apply a small amount of mortar on the wall, starting at the intersection of the two reference lines. Use the appropriate notched trowel. In general, the size of the trowel’s notches should approximately correspond to the thickness of the ceramic tile you wish to install. Spread adhesive on the back of the tile. Press the tiles in place by twisting them a bit and lining them up with the reference lines. Make your way upward and sideways in a pyramidal fashion. If necessary, use plastic tile spacers. If you need to cut a whole row of tiles, take the measures and cut all the tiles immediately. To cut ceramic tiles, use a « tile cutter ». You can rent this tool from your local retailer or a rental center. For the top row, simply remove the excess mortar. The first row off the ground will be the last one to be installed. Use cedar wedges to leave a 1/8-inch clearance space between the tiles and the floor. Do the same thing for tiles in corners or next to the bathtub. Use a hacksaw with the appropriate blade to make special or curved cuts. To make holes for piping for example, use a drill with the proper bit size. Once all the tiles are in place, wait 24 hours for the mortar to dry. Then, spread out the grout on the joints with a rubber trowel. Press the grout firmly and completely into the joints. Don’t apply mortar between dissimilar materials, and around penetrations in the tiled surface. Use silicone caulk instead; it will resist to expanding movements. Remove the excess mortar on the tile surface with a dampened sponge, and then with a clean cloth as you go along. Pull a silicone caulk joint between the tiling and the bathtub. You can apply masking tape on each of the joint sides. The surface must be clean and free of dust, soap, grease, paint flakes, old sealant, etc. You must keep the same angle and speed when applying. You can then shape the joints with a wet plastic spoon 6 or 8 minutes after application. Remove the masking tape right away.

Putting up new cabinets is simple and involves the same techniques as for kitchen cabinets. In fact, it’s possible to assemble and install bathroom cabinets in just a few minutes. Locate the highest point in the floor where you want to install the cabinets. Make a mark on the wall. On this mark, draw a horizontal, leveled line that corresponds to your cabinet’s height. Following this reference line, locate the wall studs with a finishing nail or an electronic detector. Usually, wall studs are found every 16 inches center to center. For pre-assembled cabinets, remove the protection film by cutting through the back of the unit so as not to damage the finish. Put the first cabinet in place. The first cabinet is the most important one. It must be absolutely level otherwise all the others will be crooked. Adjust the cabinet level with cedar wedges on each side. Once the cabinet is level, screw it in the wall studs. For the sink cabinet, write out the location of the plumbing pipes on the back of the unit. Some prefabricated cabinets make this process much simpler as you can easily remove and replace the detachable back panel. Make a hole with your electric drill so you can cut through the panel with the jigsaw afterwards. Finally, put the cabinet in place. Fix it on the first cabinet with vise grips. The two cabinets must hug each other perfectly. Use cedar wedges to adjust and level the second cabinet. When the two cabinets are screwed together, make the necessary adjustments to the second cabinet and screw it in permanently in the wall studs. Proceed the same way for every other cabinet. Each time, fix the cabinet you are working on to the one before with vise grips. Once the two cabinets are aligned, screw them in. Note that bathroom cabinets are installed just as kitchen cupboards would be: without their doors and drawers. Only when the installation is complete will the cabinet doors and drawers be reset. Write out the horizontal reference line on the width of the next cabinet. Draw a vertical leveled line and put up the cabinet by setting it against both lines. Finally, put the next cabinet in place and repeat the same installation steps. Slide in the shelf support fixtures, and then the shelves. Put the cabinet doors back on and slide the drawers back inside. If necessary, adjust the cabinet doors with screws designed for this purpose. Some manufacturers offer hardware that make door and drawer installation much easier. For example, this type of cabinet only requires three screws for an impeccable finish. Install the plinth on the base of the cabinets by using finishing nails. Put up the light fixtures on the ceiling simply by screwing them in.

If you chose to put up conventional sinks in your bathroom, you will have to cut out the necessary opening in your countertop. This is a relatively simple job that requires a good jigsaw and precise planning.

To install a vitreous china hexagonal sink, apply silicone caulk under the rim. Turn the sink on its good side and put it in place. Make sure it is well centered, then pull a last silicone caulk joint around it. Connect the faucet to the water inlet with compression rings. This type of ring is perfect for quick and watertight connections. Only give it one turn with the pliers. Clean up the copper pipes with steel wool or appropriate sandpaper to make everything watertight. Thanks to compression rings, you won’t need to weld any pipes to install the faucet. You shouldn’t hesitate to use this kind of ring. Assemble the complete mechanical shaft this way. The watertight joint will be under the sink. It is very important to install a U bend pipe such as this one between the drain and the return pipe to prevent sewer gas from backing up into the bathroom.

To properly finish the bathroom walls and ceiling with paint, it is important to use a top quality primer.

Adherent Interior Latex Primer/Sealer/Undercoat is a high hiding, easy brushing, interior latex primer/sealer undercoat formulated specifically for use as the first coat in all interior areas and must be top coated with appropriate finish coat (either latex or alkyd).

In addition, a Super Adherent Interior latex Primer/Sealer/Undercoat is easy to apply and easy to clean up. It is important that walls and ceiling be properly cleaned prior to painting. Then use a high quality polyester or nylon brush for cutting in along wall edges and woodwork. Use a low pile quality roller sleeve to roll in remaining surface area. Do not over brush or over work which may result in reduced hiding and may leave applicator marks. Apply a second coat as required. Wait 2 hours between coats

For finish paint in the bathroom, it is recommended to use a durable finish that will withstand multiple washings. Kitchen & bath 100% Acrylic Wall Paint is top quality, long lasting, washable, interior acrylic latex paint formulated specifically for use on walls and ceilings in kitchen and bathrooms.

Sand the walls with sand paper #120. Clean off all dust. Then follow the same application procedures as for the primer. Use a polyester or nylon brush for cutting in along wall edges and along door frames. Then use a low pile quality roller sleeve to roll in the remaining surface area.

Lets now see how to install a toilet. We chose a single-piece toilet with a powerful siphon that uses only 6 liters of water, about 63% less than regular water-flushes. Despite this particularity, all toilets are more or less installed the same way.

Turn the toilet on its back side. Put a wax ring around the horn. Screw the closet flange to the floor and center the drain if it is not already in place. Insert the anchor rods in the floor. Delicately reset the toilet. Press on the toilet seat so that the wax ring hugs the shape of the closet flange and becomes completely watertight. Screw the flange bolts on each side of the toilet. Don’t tighten the screws too much so as not to damage the ceramic. You can now connect the water inlet. Slide the water inlet tube inside the anti-friction ring and tighten the flange nuts. Connect the inlet tube to the valve.

SANIPLUS To install a bathroom below the level of the public collectors is a major problem unless you use the macerating toilet system. It is designed specifically for basement renovation. This type of toilet is a macerating/pump toilet made for pumping the sewage upwards to the level of drainage system using a small diameter pipe.

This system allows for the installation of a full bathroom without having to break the cement floor. It is a simple process. The System is a sanitary macerator and pumping system for a water closet and other bathroom fixtures. The macerating/pump unit connects to the outlet of a horizontal outlet toilet.

Once the pump is in place, connect its output to a 3/4" PVC using the appropriate hardware. If you have to go up vertically, it should be arranged that way at the beginning. When you have to make a 90 degree angle, use two 45 degree elbows to prevent blockage and maintain sufficient pressure when the pump is activated.

This system is capable of raising the sewage vertically up to 12 feet and push it for 150 feet horizontally on a minimal 2 degree incline. The drain pipe will be connected to the collector using a Y adapter.

Installation: Place the bowl on the floor and mark the location of the screws. Drill the holes in the floor and replace the bowl. Complete the assembly and screw the bowl in place. Not too tight. Use the foam gasket and join the bowl with the tank, tighten close with the cover using the chrome fasteners. Connect the water line, allowing for a shut-off valve. For a shower or sink, just connect the drains by gravity. Only the units on the same floor can be connected to the System. Make sure the electrical outlet is at least 5 feet from the bath or shower.

And that concludes this bathroom remodelling DVD. We sincerely hope the information you just saw will help you trough your own renovation project and that you will obtain professional results at the fraction of the costs.